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Kitchen Tile

  • Porcelain tile

  • Glazed ceramic tile

  • Natural stone tile (e.g., granite, slate, marble, travertine)

  • Quarry tile

  • Saltillo tile

  • Cement/concrete tile

Porcelain tile, quarry tile, and natural stone (like granite or slate) are the best materials for high-traffic kitchen areas.

Yes — in most kitchens, tile is generally better than hardwood or vinyl because it’s more water-resistant, harder to scratch, and easier to clean, making it ideal for spills, heavy traffic, and heat. Hardwood can dent and warp with moisture, and vinyl can scratch and fade over time, whereas tile (especially porcelain) stands up better to everyday kitchen wear.

Kitchen tile typically lasts 50–100 years when installed correctly and properly maintained. Porcelain and natural stone often last the longest.

Kitchen Floor

  • $10–$30 per sq. ft. installed
    (Porcelain and natural stone are on the higher end.)

Kitchen Backsplash

  • $20–$50 per sq. ft. installed
    (Intricate patterns, mosaics, and specialty tiles raise the price.)

If you want, I can break it down by tile type or give Twin Cities-specific pricing.

Generally, tile itself does not emit harmful fumes, but some related products can:

Thinset Mortar & Grout

  • Most modern thinsets and grouts are low-VOC and safe once applied.

  • During curing, there can be mild odors, but they are typically not harmful with normal ventilation.

  • Epoxy grout can have stronger fumes and should be used with good airflow.

Sealants

  • Some grout or stone sealers can release stronger VOCs while drying.

  • Proper ventilation is recommended until the smell dissipates.

Bottom Line

Tile is safe, and standard grout is usually safe.
Just ventilate the area while everything cures, especially if using epoxy or solvent-based sealers.

Kitchen Backplash

The best tiles for kitchen backsplashes are:

  • Ceramic tile

  • Porcelain tile

  • Glass tile

  • Natural stone tile (like marble or travertine)

  • Mosaic tile (glass, ceramic, or mixed materials)

These offer great durability, easy cleaning, and strong design options.

Glossy tiles are usually better for a backsplash because they're easier to clean, reflect light, and resist staining.
Matte tiles work well too, especially for a softer or modern look, but they may show grease and fingerprints more easily.

No — a backsplash does not need to go all the way to the ceiling. Most commonly it stops at the bottom of the upper cabinets.
However, running it to the ceiling is a popular design choice for a more modern, dramatic look or when there are no upper cabinets on a wall.

Backsplash installation typically takes 1–2 days for most kitchens.
This includes setting the tile on day one and grouting/cleanup on day two.

Kitchen Floor Tile

Porcelain tile is the most stain-resistant, spill-resistant, durable, and low-maintenance option—ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, and anywhere spills happen.

No — quality floor tiles do not crack easily.
Cracks usually happen only from improper installation, subfloor movement, or a heavy object being dropped, not normal use.

  • Modern kitchen: Herringbone or Chevron backsplash + straight-lay floors

  • Traditional kitchen: Basketweave floors + classic staggered subway backsplash

  • Small kitchen: Diagonal floor + vertical herringbone backsplash

  • Luxury remodel: Large-format porcelain + herringbone feature wall or splash

Yes — tile can be installed over existing flooring if the surface is level, stable, and properly prepared.
Common surfaces you can tile over include concrete, vinyl, and existing tile.
Floors that are uneven, damaged, or flexible may need to be removed or reinforced first.

Yes — tile tends to feel colder underfoot than materials like wood or vinyl because it doesn’t hold heat.
That said, it doesn’t actually make the room colder, and you can offset the cool feel with rugs or in-floor heating if desired.

Bathroom Tile

Porcelain tile is the best choice for wet environments.
It has very low water absorption, excellent durability, and works well for kitchens, bathrooms, and showers.

  • Textured porcelain tile (matte or grip-rated)

  • Quarry tile

  • Slate and other textured natural stone

  • Small mosaic tile (more grout lines = more traction)

These provide the highest slip resistance in kitchens and wet areas.

Tile itself doesn’t support mold growth, so it helps prevent it.
Just keep the grout clean and sealed, since mold is more likely to grow on grout, not the tile.

  • Diagonal (diamond) layout — makes the room feel wider

  • Large-format tiles — fewer grout lines create a more open look

  • Horizontal subway tiles — elongate walls visually

  • Vertical stack-bond tiles — make ceilings feel taller

  • Herringbone pattern — draws the eye across the room, adding depth

These patterns reduce visual clutter and give the illusion of more space.

  • 1–2 days for a simple floor

  • 2–4 days for a standard tub/shower surround

  • 4–7 days for a full bathroom (floor + shower + walls)

Time varies based on layout complexity, tile size, and drying/curing needs.

Shower Tile

  • Porcelain tile

  • Ceramic tile

  • Glass tile

  • Natural stone tile (like marble or granite, if properly sealed)

Porcelain and ceramic are the most common because they’re waterproof, durable, and easy to maintain.

Tiling the shower to the ceiling is recommended. It looks more modern, protects the walls better, reduces maintenance, and makes the space feel taller and more finished. It’s not required, but it’s the preferred approach in most updated bathrooms.

  • Small mosaic tiles (more grout lines = better traction)

  • Textured or matte porcelain tiles

  • Slip-resistant (ADA-rated) tiles

  • A quality bath mat for added grip

These options provide the best non-slip surface in wet environments.

Large-format porcelain tile is the easiest to clean in the shower.
It has a smooth, low-maintenance surface and fewer grout lines, which means less scrubbing and less chance of mold buildup.

  • Seal the grout regularly (every 6–12 months)

  • Use a high-quality grout sealer after installation

  • Clean with pH-neutral cleaners, not harsh chemicals

  • Use proper ventilation to reduce moisture buildup

  • Squeegee the walls after showers

  • Choose darker or epoxy grout for better long-term color stability

These steps keep grout looking clean and prevent mold and staining.

Bathroom Floor Tile

  • Textured porcelain tile

  • Matte or grip-rated porcelain tile

  • Quarry tile

  • Textured natural stone (like slate)

  • Small mosaic tiles (extra grout lines improve traction)

These options offer the highest safety in wet bathroom environments.

Yes — heated tile floors are absolutely worth it for most homeowners.
They make tile feel warm and comfortable, improve energy efficiency, and add resale appeal, especially in bathrooms and kitchens.

They’re inexpensive to run and can be installed under most tile types.

Yes — tile floors can easily support heavy freestanding bathtubs.
As long as the subfloor is properly built and reinforced, tile is strong enough to handle the weight of both the tub and the water.

Yes — bathroom floors should have a waterproof underlayment.
The most common options are cement board, waterproof membranes, or uncoupling membranes like Schluter Ditra. These prevent moisture damage, mold, and subfloor deterioration under tile.

General Flooring

  • Porcelain tile

  • Luxury vinyl plank (LVP)

  • Engineered hardwood

  • Natural stone

  • Laminate (high-quality, water-resistant types)

These handle high foot traffic, pets, spills, and daily wear exceptionally well.

  • Porcelain tile

  • Ceramic tile

  • Natural stone (when properly sealed)

  • Luxury vinyl plank (waterproof varieties)

  • Sheet vinyl

Porcelain tile is the top performer because of its extremely low water absorption.

Choose pet-friendly flooring by looking for materials that resist scratches, moisture, and stains. The best options are:

  • Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) – scratch-resistant, waterproof, quiet

  • Porcelain tile – extremely durable and easy to clean

  • Laminate (high-quality) – resists scratches from claws

  • Engineered hardwood – better stability than solid wood with pets

  • Cork flooring – softer and naturally antimicrobial

These options hold up well to paws, spills, and everyday wear.

The most budget-friendly flooring options are:

  • Sheet vinyl

  • Luxury vinyl plank (economy grades)

  • Laminate flooring

  • Ceramic tile (basic styles)

These offer the lowest material and installation costs while still being durable for everyday use.

Here’s the typical lifespan of common flooring types:

  • Porcelain tile: 50–100 years

  • Ceramic tile: 30–50 years

  • Natural stone: 50–100+ years (with sealing)

  • Luxury vinyl plank (LVP): 15–25 years

  • Laminate flooring: 10–20 years

  • Engineered hardwood: 20–40 years

  • Solid hardwood: 50–100 years (refinishable)

  • Sheet vinyl: 10–20 years

  • Carpet: 5–15 years

These ranges depend on installation quality, maintenance, and foot traffic.

The flooring options that increase home value the most are:

  • Hardwood flooring (solid or high-quality engineered)

  • Porcelain tile

  • Natural stone flooring

  • High-end luxury vinyl plank (LVP) in modern homes

Hardwood leads overall for resale appeal, while porcelain and stone add value in kitchens, bathrooms, and entryways.

Decks

Choose composite decking if you want low maintenance, long lifespan, and resistance to rot, fading, and splintering.

Choose real wood decking if you prefer a natural look, lower upfront cost, and the ability to refinish or stain over time.

Composite = durability and convenience
Real wood = beauty and customizability

Building a deck typically takes:

  • 1–3 days for a small, simple deck

  • 3–7 days for an average-sized deck

  • 1–3 weeks for large, multi-level, or custom designs

Timing depends on size, materials, complexity, and weather.

It’s generally better to stain a wood deck.
Stain soaks into the wood, lasts longer, peels less, and protects against moisture and UV damage more effectively than paint.

Paint can work, but it sits on top of the wood and is more likely to chip, peel, and require frequent maintenance.

Multi-level decks are great when you want to:

  • Define zones (dining, lounging, grilling, hot tub, etc.)

  • Work with a sloped yard

  • Create visual interest

  • Add seating or built-in features

  • Improve flow between the house and the yard

Stick to a single level if you want:

  • Lower cost

  • Faster construction

  • Maximum accessibility

Multi-level decks look amazing and add functionality, but they do increase cost and complexity.

Best placements:

  • Near a main door for easy access to the yard

  • Facing the backyard if you want a direct connection to the lawn or patio

  • At the side if you want a cleaner look or to maximize usable deck space

  • Between levels (for multi-level decks) to create natural transitions

  • Where they won’t block furniture zones

In short: place stairs where people intuitively walk and where they won’t interfere with seating, grilling, or entertaining areas.

The best options for under-deck water drainage are:

  • Under-deck ceiling systems (Trex RainEscape, ZipUP, etc.)

  • Trough-and-panel systems that attach under the joists

  • Sloped plastic or metal drainage panels

  • Retrofit under-joist membranes that channel water out

  • Built-in waterproof decking systems (tongue-and-groove waterproof boards)

These systems capture water that falls through the deck boards and divert it away, keeping the space below dry and usable.

The safest railing options for kids and pets are:

  • Vertical picket railings (no horizontal bars to climb)

  • Cable railings with tight spacing

  • Glass panel railings (no gaps to squeeze through)

  • Composite or aluminum balusters with narrow spacing

  • Screened-in or mesh rail systems for extra protection

These minimize climbability, prevent falls, and keep small pets from slipping through.

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